Patzcuaro - Colorado Magazine Online

We had never heard of Patzcuaro - which is off the beaten path in Mexico - until some fellow travelers recommended it, during a trip to Oaxaca. We had visited Oaxaca several times, having been impressed by rave reviews of the city by travel writers. Our expectations were high and we were not disappointed in the least. Oaxaca is an exceptionally appealing city. We were intrigued by what we had subsequently learned about Patzcuaro and made a visit in July 2004.

We flew from San Diego to Morelia via Houston on Continental. After a night in Morelia, we took a taxi to Patzcuaro, checked in at the very pleasant Villa Gardenia and walked the short distance to the center. About an hour later, there was much thunder and lightning followed by a huge downpour that temporarily flooded the streets. We wondered what we had gotten ourselves into, but this turned out to be the only significant storm during our stay.

Patzcuaro, in the colonial region of Mexico, lies 231 miles west of Mexico City toward Guadalajara in the province of Michoacan. At an altitude of 7135 ft., the town (really a village) enjoys a cool climate year round.

Patzcuaro’s most distinctive feature is its architectural uniformity. Practically every structure in the central core is whitewashed stucco with a red tiled roof.

There are no new buildings. And there are no franchises of any kind to be found.
Many of the hotels are former colonial mansions that have been carefully restored.

Any building over three stories is likely to be a cathedral. Like Oaxaca, Patzcuaro is centered around an attractive town plaza. Circling the plaza are restaurants and shops.

The residents are quite friendly but very little English is spoken in this sleepy town.

Practically all tourism originates in Mexico, with few foreigners to be seen. The town is compact and relatively flat and easily walkable.

The main pursuits for most visitors are dining and shopping. Patzcuaro is known for its distinctive crafts, most notably colorful textiles made into tablecloths and bedspreads.

The Tarascan cuisine is outstanding. Regional specialties include sopa Tarasca, pescado blanco (white fish from Lake Patzcuaro), uchepos (sweet tamales), enchiladas, and chongos caseros (sweet dessert).

Lake Patzcuaro and Janitzia Island

The town is situated two miles from Lake Patzcuaro.

The lakefront is a very popular spot with stands selling everything from Mexican handicrafts and t-shirts to miniature fish cooked before your eyes and eaten like French fries.

A number of small craft villages dot the lakefront, each with its own specialty (e.g., baskets, copper, masks and furniture). The largest tourist draw is Janitzia Island, a picturesque, conically-shaped island in the lake, about 20 minutes by boat from the lake front.

Janitzia is best known for its Day of the Dead candlelight ceremony on November 1-2, one of the most dramatic commemorations of this festival in Mexico. But the island makes for an enjoyable excursion any time.

The tourist boats stop as they approach the island so that passengers can watch the butterfly net fishing style practiced by the local fishermen.

Several paths wind their way up the steep village slopes toward the summit where there is a dramatic statue of Jose Morelos, a Mexican patriot .

Practically every inch of the way is bordered by colorful shops selling clothes and souvenirs and by eateries where whitefish and other fare are cooking.

The colorful hillside and bay are a bit reminiscent of the Amalfi Coast in Italy.

Patzcuaro and the surrounding area have strong indigenous roots. The early inhabitants (Tarascans) are believed to have established a presence around the lake by the 14th century. Their descendants (the Purepechas) are quite well represented in the region, though there are few visible signs of their heritage.

Other Points of Interest

If Patzcuaro has a fault, it would be the absence of any truly notable attractions within the town. There are several museums and cathedrals in the town but none of must-see interest. The town is simply a pleasant place to admire the architecture and while away time relaxing in the plazas while contemplating your next dining experience.

At the plaza, you might see an enactment of the Dance of the Little Old Men, an indigenous creation of long ago which mocks the Spanish invaders. The performers wear silly–looking masks, pretend to hobble about with canes, and at the same dance impressively, clacking their wooden sandals in dramatic fashion.

There are some points of interest a bit farther afield. Morelia, the capital of Michoacan province, is only 36 miles to the east. Morelia, a larger colonial city also pretty much off the tourist trail, receives positive reviews in Mexico guidebooks for its architecture and cuisine.

Urupan, 38 miles west of Patzcuaro, is lower in elevation and more tropical. It lacks the colonial charm of Morelia and Patzcuaro but borders Parque National Barranca de Cupatizio, a lush tropical park. Urupan is also the gateway to Paricutin Volcano, a popular excursion and hiking destination. The volcano, now dormant, last erupted in 1943.

Top